Go catch them waves
I decided to write this post in English. Mainly because I am traveling I guess, and when I travel my mind shifts over to English, it just makes way more sense to let everyone in. Also I am being nostalgic. Traveling does that to me. It makes me think of all the amazing and inspiring people I’ve met over the years. I feel blessed. Throwing my self out there always results in a feeling of recognition and warmth. There is always a voice encouraging me to do better, while still acknowledging my strengths and accomplishments. This time I have Tiago to thank. The handsome, rough, caring and inspiring surf teacher. Whom I only spent two short hours with. But who still taught me not only a whole lot about surfing, but about life in general. Tiago told me my backside turn was good, but front not so much. So then he said to practice lefts. Over and over and over. And only once in a while catch a right, just to make me feel good. And I loved what he was saying. He was saying that you should always keep practicing what you’re struggling with. In stead of staying too comfortable. But still: make sure you do what you know every once in a while, cause you DO know something. An other thing I love about surfing is that you always have to “look where you are going”. Not somewhere close, but exactly where you want to go. If you wanna ride the wall of the wave, you stare into it. You lean towards it. You really have to decide. What if we did more of this in life? Decided where we wanted to go. And just went for it. One hundred percent.
I caught some really great waves with Tiago. But I also took some falls. I became a better surfer, but I also found peace with being the surfer that I am. I am the body that I am, and I can’t compare myself to my friends that are catching bigger waves, making perfect turns, staying on their boards forever. I might never get there. But that is OK. Cause I can keep practicing on what I need to practice to move forward. And I can balance perfectly on the edge of my comfort zone. Not just on my surf board. But in everything I do. Surfing is about balance. And so is life. It is about planting your feet, standing steadily and looking forward. Looking to where you wanna go. You have to really decide. Decide not to fall. Or decide it is ok if you do. But decide to go there. Decide to ride the wave. Show the board and the wave that you are in charge. Show the world that you are willing to try. Not that you are already a master. Surf’s up guys. Go catch them waves!